Blíží se konec starého roku, je čas povánoční a lidé si užívají svátky, volno, karanténu a Smrt. O práci jste už nezavadili jak je COVID dlouhej a možná někdy v listopadu naposledy museli vstávat už v jedenáct dopoledne na Home Office. Sladký život většiny vzdělaných a úspěšných.
Bohužel ne každý má to štěstí být vzdělaným a úspěšným. Mizivé procento neúspěšných lidí nemůže ani v dnešní době, v tom nejlepším možném ze všech špatných systémů, pracovat z domova. A ti nejméně úspěšní musí dokonce házet lopatou i o svátcích vánočních a trpělivě čekat až jim kapitalista blahosklonně povolí aspoň den volna na zotavenou. Ale protože můj kapitalista otrokář má dobré srdce povolil mi poslední víkend před novým rokem dokonce volné dny dva. Vlastně dva a půl! S tím, že do práce mě požene až v pondělí v noci.
Jsa mu za to vděčný, rozhodl jsem se využít této nevídané příležitosti ke zdravotní procházce po Českých horách, abych se pak do práce vrátil plně zotavený a připravený podávat špičkové výkony.
Před odjezdem jsem ještě do poslední chvíle váhal mezi Šumavou a Jizerkami. A protože se dokážu neomylně chybně rozhodnout, vyhrály nakonec Jizerky.
sobota 26.12.
Přímý autobus do Kořenova (zastávka Příchovice, Motorest) vyjíždí v půl deváté ráno a za slabé dvě hodiny je na místě mého startu. Je konec prosince léta páně 2020 tudíž jsem si již zvyknul, že se není třeba obávat sněhových závějí a sněžnice nechal v klidu doma. Lehký poprašek si říká maximálně tak o návleky, které si po té co minu Tesařovskou kapli také ihned nasazuji. Další a poslední památkou, kterou míjím na tomto krátkém výletu je pak Kostel narození svatého Jana Křtitele. Dnes ale nemám čas se zastavovat a pospíchám do přírody, abych stihl trochu toho sněhového poprašku, nějaký ty výhledy a možná kapku rumu než slunce zapadne za obzor. Projdu okraj vísky Horní Polubný kde mi cedule před jedním z mrtvých penziónů připomene starou známou citaci mého prezidenta Zemana: „Neschopní ať zkrachují!“ A já snad jen dodávám – méně neschopní ať dřou pro kapitalisty a schopní ať si užívají na Home Office, tak jako vy moji milí čtenáři.
Černý vrch
Jde se svižně po širokých zpevněných cestách s maximální výškou sněhu do 5 cm. Dlouho nikoho nepotkávám, až na jeden mladý pár a nezdravícího lyžaře na Cestě pod Černým vrchem. Samotný Černý vrch s jeho skalními útvary, konkrétně pak s Čertovým kamenem (existuje snad nějaké místo kde by nebyl Čertův kámen?) je jedním z mých hlavních cílů.
Na mapě vypadala cesta velice jednoduše, dojdu po široké zpevněné cestě až pod vrchol a pak vystoupám slabých 500 metrů strmou pěšinou. Realita se od mapy, jak to v těchto případech bývá, lehce liší. Pod Černým vrchem jsem pár minut po poledni, na Černém vrchu hodinu po poledni. Dobrá třičtvrtě hodina stoupání, prodírání se přes kmeny, křoviny, okolo kamenů. Najít pěšinu se mi zkrátka nepodařilo a utváření místní krajiny a vegetace azimutu moc nepřeje. Kleju a vytahuju se pomalu na holích s tím, že se mi ta dřina snad aspoň trochu vyplatí. Ano – pár pěknými výhledy a skalním útvarem jsem nakonec odměněn byť tato panoramata by si zasloužila spíš zrcadlovku než fotky z mého amatérského a levného mobilu.
Na vrcholu Čertova kamene by se měla nacházet vrcholová kniha a to již od roku 1968. To je ale výzva pro horolezce a nikoli pro šnečího pěšáka.
Když se mi nahoře podaří najít vyšlápnutou cestu z ničeho nic se začnou rojit lidé. Zdravím se s mladým horolezcem co mává hypermoderním telefonem s nejnovější GPS aplikací, ukazuje mi cestu dolů a ihned sděluje potěšující informaci – proslulý kiosek Promenáda má otevřeno. Vypadá to, že rumy budou!
Rumová motivace je silná a tak kašlu na další focení a bleskově klesám na Promenádní cestu alkoholu vstříc.
Opět občerstvení Promenáda
Nebojím se tvrdit, že se jedná již o legendární kiosek ležící na rozcestí Promenádní cesty a Jizerské silnice. Jsem zde v zimě opět po roce. Nabídka zahrnuje čaje, grogy, rumy, další panáky, pivo, limo, teplé občerstvení a dnes také borůvkový koláč. Kolem je srocen hrozen běžkařů, ale účast je slabá, je znát, že sněhu je pomálu a neschopní vlastníci penzionů mají zavřeno. Prý by měla mít zavřeno i Promenáda, ale výdej přes okénko snad COVID nerozsévá a nikdo se nemá k tomu vytáhnout mobil a zavolat rouškovou zásahovou jednotku. Lehkomyslnost nezodpovědných turistů vítězí. A moje taky.
Chci si dát velký půllitr čaje se dvěma rumy, ale půllitrový kelímek nemají. Nevadí, šalamounsky kupuji dva malé čaje a do každého jeden rum. Nechávám kilo. To je totiž zdejší speciální vysokohorská přirážka – ceny určuje sám zákazník. A obvykle je určuje pěkně vysoký. Nesnesl bych být zahanben zbohatlickými manažery na lyžích.
Dva rumy spolknu jak nic a jdu si objednat třetí s tím, že ke slovu přijde i zmíněný borůvkový koláč. Původně jsem nechtěl, svačil jsem a vlastního jídla mám dostatek, ale chuť po rumu byla silnější.
Po něm se dávám na chvíli do řeči s jedním z běžkařů co si se zájmem prohlíží mé dvě karimatky přidělané na batohu. Hned se mu zalesknou oči vzpomínkami na bivaky za mlada na sněhu. Hned by taky vyrazil, děti už má sice odrostlé, ale manželka spaní venku na sněhu příliš neholduje. Probíráme chvíli zase koronavirus, který naštěstí na Promenádě nefunguje, ale zato funguje ve všech penziónech, které jsou pro běžkaře zavřené. Pak se hovor ještě stočí k lyžování. I o něm by jsem mu dal rád pár rad, ale to bych potřeboval ještě tak dalších pět rumů. Nakonec si pána už volá manželka a tak poslušně nasazuje běžky a sviští dolů na parkoviště – spí dnes prý v autě. Není to takový jako na bivaku, ale podle mě pořád lepší než v penziónu.
Čerstvý vítr
Dopiju rum a sám vyrazím k rozcestí Černá Smědá. Ze stejnojmenné říčky doplním zásoby vody a pomalu hledám místo na spaní. Začíná se totiž stmívat a já bych rád zítra viděl blízký Plochý vrch za světla. Blížím se k němu po Smrkové cestě, která nabízí spoustu míst až se nemůžu rozhodnout, které si vybrat. Nakonec odbočuji do pěkného výklenku krytého ze tří stran lesem a během dvou minut stavím svoje indiánské teepee. Vařím venku čaj a na noc ještě polívku. Do spacáku zalézám už v půl sedmé večer, s jasným měsícem nad hlavou a plánem vstát zítra v pět ráno.
Blaženě usínám zavrtán v péřovém spacáku a kolem tarpu čechrá sníh lehký vánek. Přemýšlím nad předpovědí, která hlásila čerstvý vítr na dnešek v Kořenově a Hejnicích. Na vrcholky hor jsme se nedíval, ale na Blesku orkán nehlásili takže jsem v klidu.
O tři hodiny později mě probouzí polévkový tlak na ledviny a také čerstvý vítr, který čechrá vrcholky smrků nad mojí hlavou. Nepřikládám tomu velký význam a po toaletě zalézám zpět do spacáku. Za další hodinu ale už vítr čechrá i moje teepee a v nárazech sem tam přimáčkne boky pyramidy k mé hlavě. Na mém místě se sice žádné vyslovené drama nekoná, ale z cesty za rohem a z planiny za cestou se nese zlověstné hvízdání, dunění a typický zvuk naklánějících se stromů. Během noci mě nárazy do tarpu budí ještě několikrát, stejně tak lehký chlad. Chvíli jsem si pohrával s myšlenkou všechno sbalit a vrátit se na Promenádu, schovat se u boudy. Nakonec ale zvítězil zdravý rozum – riziko, že na mě spadne strom tady je asi nižší než absolvovat cestu po větrné dálnici a pak se „schovat“ na podobném místě jako je mé stávající. Ne, to je nesmysl. Příště beru špunty do uší.
neděle 27.12.
Malý „č“ forever
Ráno není moudřejší večera. Vstát se mi daří až v šest v marné víře, že se vítr trochu uklidní. Za světla sice už situace nepůsobí tak hrozivě, ale hvízdání kolem pokračuje i nadále. Vařit venku nelze ani náhodou a tak kaši a čaj dělám v teepee. V noci byla o něco větší zima než jsem předpokládal a voda v lahvi mimo spacák zmrzla na kámen. Leju líh pevnou rukou a vařím bez problémů ze sněhu. Pak už promptně balím a vyrážím na cestu v čase kdy i běžkaři ještě spí.
Po osmé se vítr trochu uklidňuje a já můžu tvrdohlavě pokračovat k Plochému vrchu. Pomalu se sunu nahoru kde nacházím – nic co by stálo dnes za zmínku. Po holé pláni se valí vítr a celá přírodní památka Quarré leží pod popraškem sněhu. Bez něj by zde nejspíše bylo k nalezení vřesoviště, které je syceno pouze deštěm a sněhem.
Nemám důvod se zde déle zdržovat, chvíli mi trvá najít vyšlapanou cestu dolů a napojit se u přístřešku Předěl na zelenou hřebenovku. V přístřešku stojí na srabáka postavený stan a pár věcí vyložených na stole. Jinak mrtvo a prázdno, nocležníci mají v půl desáté dopoledne ještě půlnoc. I běžkařů viditelně ubylo, vítr dnes moc rodinek ven nenalákal.
Já z hlavní cesty zanedlouho odbočuji a začínám se proplétat směrem na Sedmitrámový most. Cesty na mapě opět neexistují a les plný popadaných uschlých stromů pěkně duní. Nakonec se nedostanu ani k jedli Veroniky Lahrové, která roku 1829 zahynula při sběru klestí. Rozdrtil ji padající strom…
Pauzu dělám až u Sedmitrámového mostu. Moje původní představa, že si zde uvařím čaj bere rychle za své – otevřený přístřešek nic takového neumožní. Sejdu tedy k říčce Smědá, naberu vodu a po dvacetiminutovém boji v provizorním závětří získávám půllitr čaje.
Zde také musím učinit konečné rozhodnutí – napojím se zanedlouho na jih na Čínskou cestu a budu pokračovat v původním plánu směrem k Holubníku a Vlčímu kameni na hřebeny a nebo zbaběle uteču na vlak do Bílého potoka? Ještě by tedy byla možnost vyšplhat na Smrk a schovat se v rozhledně, ale tam už poslední dobou chodím upřímně dost nerad – bývá často plná. A nebo bych to mohl zalomit na Frýdlantské cimbuří ke skalám kde se dá zalézt ve spacáku pod některý z výklenků kde člověka padající strom nemůže zasáhnout.
Čerstvý vítr přechází po stupnici o kapku výše, stromy se naklání a nadmořská výška ve které se nacházím není ani 600 nad mořem. Jak to asi vypadá o 500 metrů výše? 50:50 tak jsem nalomen k ukončení či k pokračování výletu, který byl plánován až do zítřejšího poledne. Sakra, nejsme přeci někde na Islandu nebo v nějakým jiným větrným extrému. Jsem malej čecháček v malejch českejch horách, malý „č“ forever! Co by se tady kurva mohlo stát? Poryv větru mi podráží nohy a tlačí mě do škarpy vedle cesty. Dobře. Má příslovečná zbabělost začíná vítězit. Není ještě ani poledne a já začínám zase jednou utíkat na vlak. Tak tohle se tedy opravdu nepovedlo, tohle se snad nedá považovat ani za procházku!
Dej přednost v jízdě popelnici
Zda jsem udělal dobře či špatně je ve hvězdách. Při sestupu do Bílého potoka pozoruji létající předměty na zahradách rodinných domů a pěší cestu si ještě prodlužuji až k nádraží Hejnice. Poslední úsek mezi nádražím Bílý potok a nádražím Hejnice vede po úzké vedlejší okresní silnici a čerstvý vítr se mi opět připomíná. A to stylem, že se musím držet hůlkami, aby mě nevmetl do středu vozovky. V samotných Hejnicích mě vítají poletující odpadkové koše a kousek před nádražím dávám přednost z leva jedoucí popelnici. Ta nakonec nepřizpůsobí rychlost jízdy stavu vozovky a končí převrácená na chodníku.
Vlak jede před druhou hodinou odpolední. Utíkání mi jde více než dobře. Stejně jako objednávka busu z Liberce do Prahy. V době pandemie se dá Student Agency zabookovat hodinu před odjezdem! To se mi snad nepodařilo zatím nikdy.
Posledním dnešním útěkem je bleskový nákup coly na libereckém nádraží a okamžité opuštění tamních prostor, které ve tři odpoledne pevně ovládá jakýsi cikánský teenage gang obtěžující v počtu asi dvaceti členů všechny a všechno. Policajta nevidět a já se jim nedivím. Sám sobě se taky nedivím, nehraju si na hrdinu, nečekám až na mě přijde řada a dekuju se směr zastávka Fügnerova využívajíc toho, že se skupinka nepřizpůsobivých věnuje nějaké mladé slečně.
V půl čtvrtý sedím už v bezpečí na rezervovaném místě v buse a opouštím čerstvý vítr, jezdící popelnice i nádražní gangy.
Malý „č“ forever!
Dodatek
V noci ze soboty na pondělí dosahoval čerstvý vítr na hřebenech Jizerských hor síly orkánu, v četných nárazech přes 140 km/h. Tak zase příště v našich malých českých horách až mě kapitalista pustí z okovů. Co by se tady asi tak mohlo stát.
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