Procházky

Kovboj ze Žlutic a jiné příběhy ze Sudet


Označení Sudety možná není úplně přesné, ostatně ani historikové se nemůžou přesně shodnout na tom, které příhraniční oblasti by měly do této oblasti spadat. A pokud se podíváte do chytrých knih a publikací zjistíte, že i rozdělení na bohaté a chudé Sudety má své nepřesnosti. Já se kupříkladu v jednu červnovou středu vydal směrem na severozápad do oblasti mezi Rakovnickou pahorkatinou, Doupovskými horami a Slavkovským lesem, na území bývalých bohatých Sudet, které jsou ale po 75 letech od skončení druhé světové války chudší než celá rodina kostelních myší.

Kraj, o kterém se nemluví, lidé kteří neexistují. Zapadlé vesnice, stará stavení, zarostlé stezky a život, který ostře kontrastuje s nablýskaným světem úspěšných městských lidí, jenž nám každý den ukazují média a sociální sítě. Tak hurá na výlet, Žlutickou nádražku v televizi jen tak neuvidíte.

středa 3.6.

Lubenec

Pro dvoudenní procházku jsem si vybral trasu z městečka Lubenec, přes Žlutice se zakončením v Toužimi, s tím, že přespím u přátel na statku v jedné z vísek. Že jste o žádném z těch míst nikdy neslyšeli? V pořádku, to asi nikdo.

Cesta z Prahy je všechno, jenom ne jednoduchá. Původně jsem chtěl jet na kole z Rakovníka, ale vzhledem k velkému množství vlakových výluk jsem nakonec dal přednost pohybu pěšky. S několika peripetiemi, s použitím náhradní autobusové dopravy, se mi daří, krátce po půl desáté, dopravit do centra Lubence. Obec, jejíž dominantu tvoří kostel svatého Vavřince z devatenáctého století. Historické prameny o existenci samotné obce ale sahají až do století dvanáctého. V současnosti má něco okolo 1400 obyvatel, převažují Češi a dle přítomných prodejen a stánků též Vietnamská enkláva. Ale ještě v roce 1930 byl poměr obyvatel následující – 148 Čechoslováků a 843 Němců. To je ale již minulost.

Okolím Lubence

Z Lubence se vydávám po naučné stezce „Okolím Lubence“. Na mapě vypadá zelená turistická značka pěkně přehledně, v reálu se mi ale po pár kilometrech ztrácí a posléze znovu objevuje, značení je evidentně zastaralé a po místních pěšinách se davy turistů nevalí.

Míjím zámek Struhaře, který je ale nepřístupný a ve zbídačeném stavu připomíná spíše polorozpadlé vesnické stavení. Momentálně tak vlastně i slouží a je v soukromém vlastnictví, veřejnosti nepřístupný.

První pauzu dělám u Hraběcí (Lažanské) studánky, která má ale své nejlepší roky také za sebou a jsem rád, že si nesu vlastní vodu. Rychle se otepluje a další cesta tentokrát po žluté turistické značce se opět ztrácí v polích. Stezka přes Žďárek do Chyše vede přes mokřady a podél pole s ječmenem, který mi sahá nad pás. Tady asi nešel nikdo, vyjma zemědělců, celé jaro.

Dětský křížek

Úsek cesty přes městečko Chyše absolvuji velice svižně. Malá obec s necelými šesti sty obyvateli a poměrně zachovalým zámkem z dvanáctého století není mým dnešním cílem a tak se zde nezdržuji a upaluji po asfaltu dál směrem na Žlutice. Kousek na jih se tyčí vrch Vladař proslulý archeologickými nálezy, které pamatují až dobu bronzovou, kelty, husity a všechny vzestupy a pády středověku. Nemůžu ale stihnout vše, zblízka se na něj, a jeho hradiště, podívám při nějaké další návštěvě.

Žlutá stezka se posléze mění na pěšinu a kopíruje povodí řeky Střely, která v tomto kraji ještě nedělá čest svému jménu a je velice klidná. Obyčejný český les si náležitě užívám, dokud mě ze slunečného stavu mysli nevytrhne hororová tabule upozorňující na dětský křížek. Text připomíná děsivou událost z meziválečného období a vraždu dvou mladých chlapců spáchanou jejich otcem. Kam se hrabou pohodový smrti v Jizerkách! Ona událost se stala právě na této trase, která spojuje Žlutice a Kolešov. Do Kolešova již kluci 4. května 1919 nedošli …

Naučná stezka sovy Rozárky

Jsem rád, že mám tento nehezký historický dokument za sebou a raději začnu nabírat výšku po naučné stezce sovy Rozárky. Celkem sedm kilometrů dlouhá cesta dokáže člověku zvednout náladu. Zasloužil se o ní spolek SOVa – Spolek okrašlovací Vladař, stejně jako o další naučné stezky v této lokalitě. Kochám se texty na informačních tabulích, prohlížím si dřevěná zvířátka a u domečku Žlutické lurdy přemýšlím o přestěhování. Studánka opět nepatří mezi nejčistší, ale tady mi to nikterak nevadí. Klidně bych uvítal, kdyby cesta byla delší. Určitě jí doporučuji rodinami s dětmi, ale i komukoli kdo má rád „obyčejný“ český kraj a klid. Myslím totiž, že ani v létě o víkendu se zde určitě nebudete prodírat armádou turistů.

Nevděk

Poslední dnešní stoupaní ve zdejším členitém terénu mě přivádí na kopec Nevděk. Na něm jsou k nalezení zbytky zdiva po stejnojmenném hradu. Člověk tedy nejdříve projde kolem jakési napůl zpustlé stodoly/statku a teprve potom vyleze až na vrchol kopce. Není zde skoro nic, vyjma několik metrů hluboké studně, do které není těžké spadnout a zajímalo by mě kolika opilcům se to již kdy podařilo…moment, tady ale nejsem na Vyšehradě a tak je taková událost asi poměrně vzácná. I tak je dobré o studni vědět, zvláště pak třeba při noční výpravě, když je člověk sám. Sám by se z ní totiž určitě nedostal.

Samotné zbytky hradu pocházejí z patnáctého století s tím, že objekt si žádnou velkou slávu neužil a už ve století šestnáctém byl víceméně opuštěn a zpustl. Na vrcholu se tyčí pouze kříž a místy jsou patrné zbytky opevnění podél příkopů.

Žlutická nádražka

Letmý pohled na hodinky značí, že je již po třetí hodině odpolední. 20 kilometrů za mnou a poslední dva kilometry seběhnutí na okraj Žlutic k nádraží. To je momentálně mimo provoz a dopravu zajišťuje náhradní autobus namísto vlaku. Mimo provoz ale naštěstí není perla zdejšího kraje –  nádražní restaurace kousek od kolejí. Skanzen a skvost každého milovníka nádražek, místo kde se zastavil čas a kam vládní regulace, příkazy, zákazy a omezení nikdy nedosáhly. Nic konkrétního úplně napsat nemůžu neb to jsou věci o kterých se nemluví, stejně jako se nemluví o poloze starých trampských srubů. Legendy zůstanou legendami, a co se stane v nádražce, zůstane v nádražce. Jen škoda, že zde také není umístěna nějaká informační tabule s historií tohoto jedinečného místa.

Dám si tedy jedno pivo, nefiltrovaný Gambrinus a je mi to jedno. I kdyby tu měli Krušovickou desítku tak by mi chutnala. Výčepačka neurčitého středního věku je zde zatím sama, štamgasti prý přijdou až po čtvrté odpoledne, po práci. Po práci! Tady se pracuje, to tedy koukám a trochu se stydím, že sám v práci nejsem. Zatím. Nějaká mě dnes ještě čeká.

Prohlídku samotných Žlutic nechám také na jindy. V místním měřítku se jedná o učiněné velkoměsto – cca. 2300 obyvatel, historie sahající opět až do dvanáctého století a mají tady i muzeum!

Život na statku

Dnes bohužel nemám čas strávit zde několik hodin. Ani ve Žluticích, ani v nádražce. U druhého piva přijíždí kamarádka Maruška, nabere mě do auta a vyrážíme na statek jejího partnera Jirky do jedné z místních vesnic.

Zdejší kraj je protkán množstvím zapadlých vesniček ke kterým leckdy vede jediná příjezdová cesta. Asfalt hlavních cest se rychle mění na štěrkovinu a ve většině vísek je upravená silniční komunikace přítomna pouze v jejich úzkém středu. Domy se střídají od historických chalup v lepším stavu až po zchátralá stavení a opuštěné, rozbořené objekty. Co zde k vidění není je nablýskaný luxus novostaveb a satelitních městeček. Za celé své dvoudenní putování jsem nenarazil na jedinou zrekonstruovanou vilu či podobné sídlo, kterými se to jinde jen hemží. Nedostatek práce, či spíše bídné platové podmínky spolu s absencí střední třídy, jsou zde v mnoha aspektech patrné na první pohled. Ale na první pohled je zde patrná i ona „obyčejná“ příroda, která není zasažená přehnaně přebujelou aglomerací, infrastrukturou, průmyslem a turismem. I víkendových chalup je zde naprosté minimum. Lidé zde buď žijí a nebo jsou domy opuštěné a chátrají.

Kdo může, dojíždí za prací do některého z větších měst. Kdo nemůže, dře zpravidla v zemědělství. Peněz není nazbyt, „kulturní vyžití“ a další populární vynálezy nového věku zde nejsou takřka přítomny, takže kraj neláká mladé lidi ani bohatší vrstvu obyvatel, o potenciálních investorech nemluvě. Zda to je dobře či špatně – to by se člověk musel zeptat místních, a nebo s nimi zde strávit pár let, a zjistit jestli jsou se současným stavem, a se svými životy, spokojeni. A nebo si myslí, že u souseda je tráva zelenější…

Maruška a Jirka už místní jsou. Jiří by rád zkusil kariéru u PČR v Karlových Varech, případně ve Žluticích, což je jedna z elitních možností jak si zde zajistit nadstandardní plat, a Maruška se chce věnovat práci v domácnosti na plný úvazek. Někdo si to prostě umí zařídit.

Jejich dům je jako většina ostatních bývalý statek s rozsáhlými přilehlými polními pozemky, stájemi, chlívy a hospodářskou budovou. Ta je ve špatném stavu, ale prý ještě pár století vydrží. Interiér obytné části je ale už zrekonstruován a poskytuje bydlení pro dva a k tomu dvě děti, z nichž jedno je teprve pár měsíců staré mimino. Na zahradě se pak začíná rozmáhat menší zvěřinec v podobě jednoho australského ovčáka, fenky australského honáckého psa, kočky, několika koz, slepic…a kdo ví co ještě přibude během příštích pár let.

Už vás dostatečně nudím? OK. Ostatně nepřijel jsem na tohle místo, abych zde vykresloval cizí soukromí. Přijel jsem si zahrát na kovboje.

Kovboj a rodeo

S úderem sedmé hodiny podvečerní přijíždí dodávka s dalšími přáteli – Petr a Zdeněk – a společně vyrážíme do vedlejší vsi naložit – krávu. Tedy telátko. 200 kilogramů vážící jalovičku, učiněnýho drobečka s poetickým jménem Tečka. Má to jediný problém, a sice ten, že milá jalovička se narodila na pastvě a na ní i vyrostla. Je to tedy takový polodivoký drobeček. Vlastně spíš divoký. No prostě je to neovladatelná vyplašená bestie odhodlaná použít všechnu svou sílu k tomu, aby se vzpřela jakékoli lidské manipulaci. To mi nedodává pocit štěstí, ale odvážně se hlásím, že se mnou je možné počítat. Přece si čtyři chlapi poradí s jedním malým a slabým telátkem. No čtyři chlapi. Petr a Zdeněk moje nadšení úplně nesdílí a ničeho se prý účastnit nemíní. Neva. Tohle je práce pro hrdinu. Štěstí, že Jirka se toho účastnit musí. Jaksi by bylo blbý kdyby se hodlal vyvlíknout z akce, kterou naplánovala jeho drahá polovička. Začíná pršet a obloha se zatáhla mraky jako předzvěst věcí příštích.

Nakládání probíhá v klidu. Probíhá v klidu hlavně z toho důvodu, že se ho neúčastníme. Celý proces obstarají dva zkušení zemědělci – manželé. Majitelé jalovice, oba věkově hodně přes padesát, pán dost možná už na prahu, nebo za prahem, důchodového věku. Ale pomocí lan, položené palety a pamlsků vstoupí Tečka do dodávky jako másle. To mě naplňuje klidem. Jasně, jsou to zkušení harcovníci, co už nějakou tu krávu v životě zkrotili, jasně měli jí už ustájenou z pastvi uvnitř a zvykla si na ně. Ale pár zvířat jsem už v životě zvládl a tohle je jenom malá kráva, není to pes, není to šelma, nemá to zuby a já nejsem důchodce. To půjde. Jako po másle. Jen kdyby pořád nepršelo.

Po příjezdu zpět na statek uvážeme dle instrukcí, které jsme dostali a okoukali při nakládání, lano k trámu uvnitř stájí. Oblékám si pončo pláštěnku neb déšť sílí a nemám s sebou žádné náhradní oblečení. Maruška v dodávce odváže dvě jistící lana z jalovičky a na jednom vedoucím lanu a na vodítku ji pomalu začínáme přemlouvat k opuštění dodávky. Chopím se hlavního lana, Jirka je u úvazu ve stáji, který bude postupně zkracovat a Maruška u vodítka. Petr se Zdendou udržují bezpečnou vzdálenost několika desítek metrů jako fanoušci na fotbale. A že je čemu fandit. Tečka pomalu sestoupí z dodávky a…zběsile se rozeběhne stranou. 200 kilo živé váhy v pohybu. Jsem zapřenej na lanu. To si ale jenom myslím. Ve skutečnosti na něm třepotám jako fáborka a letím na hromadu palet. Nohama rovnou do kopřiv. Chvíli mi trvá, než se seberu a s klením ze sebe sundávám pláštěnku. Teď už to je jedno. Navrhuji, aby se vodítka chopil Jirka a Marie bude zkracovat lano ve stáji až budeme nebohé zvíře pomalu ručkovat dovnitř. Telátko nás nezná, a to co s ním provádíme se mu pranic nelíbí, spolupracovat nemíní. Petr se Zdendou si zapalují fanouškovskou cigaretu, já rvu lano co mi šlachy a svaly stačí a Jirka naviguje vodítkem očekávaný pohyb téhle zarputilé hověziny.

A pak jenom pár vteřin zlomu a děsu. Teleti definitivně dochází trpělivost, přestává se vzpouzet a vyráží do protiútoku – přímo vpřed. Nejdřív na mě, ale těsně přede mnou uhne, otočí se na Jirku a srazí ho. Tedy, dá mu vysloveně tečku. Já letím setrvačností znovu do kopřiv, tentokrát obličejem. Jirkovi se kolem nohy uvázala smyčka, kráva nad ním tancuje smrtící lambadu, Maruška je ztuhlá, já rvu lano a všechno bez výsledku. Trvá to celé jen pár vteřin, ale mě to přijde jako věčnost během které se mi před očima promítá záchranářský vrtulník, sanitka, JIPKA a Jirkův pohřeb. Beru kus palety a chci…co vlastně chci? Praštit rozzuřenou krávu kusem prkna?

Po skončení věčnosti se Jirka náhle osvobozuje z osudné smyčky, utíká pryč a jalovice, stále na provaze, za stáj. Druhý narozeniny a pohřeb nebude. Jen Petrovi se Zdeňkem zhasly cigarety a já se propadám do post traumatického šoku. To byl tedy Kennedy jako kovboj od krav. Dobrá práce.

Maruška trvá na tom, že to zkusíme ještě jednou. Zamítá se. Dnes už určitě nikdo neumře. Jirka je naštěstí jenom pomlácenej. Bere telefon a volá starým zemědělcům, že jsme to posrali a jestli to zítra nedají do pořádku. Co mu odpověděli bych asi slyšet nechtěl, ale nakonec se dohodneme, že jalovice zůstane přes noc venku na provaze a zítra profíci přijedou a uvidí co se dá dělat.

Petr se Zdeňkem na zítra čekat určitě nechtějí, loučí se, děkují za přímý přenos zápasu, skáčou do dodávky a mizí za hranice tohoto kraje kde zítra znamená dneska. Přestává pršet a mračna se začínají rozhánět.

I my se jdeme už raději uložit ke spánku. Mě zítra čeká druhá část trasy, Marušku péče o dítě a Jirku druhá kovbojská epizoda.

čtvrtek 4.6.

Skoky

Budíček ráno na šestou, rychlá snídaně, poděkování za pohostinství a ještě krátká vycházka s pejsky, abych si taky užil jiný, pro mě o poznání oblíbenější, zvířata. Na druhou část rodea čekat nehodlám, chci toho dnes hodně stihnout a taky jsem srab.

Druhou část výletu zahajuji svižně a přes pole a přes lesy mířím do vesničky s názvem Polom. Jedna z mnoha obcí s pár obyvateli, bez hospody, bez ničeho, jako většina tady. Tahle má ale jedno specifikum – leží kousek od starého poutního místa Skoky a přímo na poutní cestě, která k této pozoruhodné památce vede.

Cestou procházím kolem několika kapliček a pátrám po zbytcích bývalé vesnice. Z ní ale nezůstalo skoro nic. Její osud je velice dobře popsán i na wikipedii. Vesnice Skoky, či také Mariánské Skoky, existovala od šestnáctého století až do roku 1982. To už ale byla spíše její labutí píseň. V roce 1982 zemřela poslední obyvatelka, ovšem samotnou vesnici těžce poznamenala především druhá světová válka. Obec měla kdysi přes sto obyvatel a dokonce dvě hospody. Po odsunu německých obyvatel v roce 1945 už ale noví občané do vesnice nepřišli, domy postupně zchátrali a zbytek lidí se přestěhoval do okolních vesnic. A tak zbyl pouze kus hřbitova, hostince, kaplička a stodola. Co ale zůstalo dodnes, a co láká hlavně poutníky, je starý monumentální kostel. I na něm se podepsal zub času a jeho budoucí osud je nejistý, protože rekonstrukce této velké stavby by byla finančně mimořádně nákladná a finančně nenávratná. A to je v kraji, kde peněz není nazbyt a podnikatelské záměry končí kdesi v Karlových Varech, problém. Možná je to ale svým způsobem dobře. Stále se zde konají různé akce a bohoslužby a ještě dlouho asi konat budou. Já sám jsem během své návštěvy, v devět dopoledne, narazil na jakémsi nádvoří na jednoho člověka, pravděpodobně správce. Každopádně toto místo se vyznačuje mimořádným klidem a atmosférou pohody, odlehlosti a opuštěnosti. Samo o sobě symbolizuje charakter této oblasti. A možná je lepší, že je takové jaké je, než aby se zde tyčila okázalá novodobá stavba a neméně okázalá silnice s ještě okázalejším parkovištěm. Takhle je to jedno z mála skutečných poutních míst, kam se člověk vydá pěšky, bez masových průvodů. Jistě během oficiálních akcí zde bude lidí víc, ale kdo chce může sem přijít kdykoliv a ve stínu kostela si dopřát klid ve svém životě. Rád bych viděl víc podobných míst na mapě ČR. Osobně si myslím, že by ani nebyla třeba celková nákladná rekonstrukce, stačilo by stavbu jen průběžně staticky zajišťovat udržovat ve stávajícím stavu. A udržet její genius loci.

Strávil jsem zde skoro hodinu a dokážu si představit zastavit se zde i na celý den, přečíst knihu, doplnit energii a celkově si orazit. A to říkám jako člověk, kterého jakékoli náboženské záležitosti nechávají úplně chladným.

Bez značek

Celá poutní cesta ke Skokům je značena specifickou modrou značkou. Ale jako vše v Sudetech i ona je už poznamenaná časem a skutečností, že jí pravděpodobně dlouho nikdo neobnovil. Kroužím tedy kolem vodní nádrže Žlutice cestou necestou, pole, les, pěšina se občas ztrácí, pak zase objevuje, a já plně spoléhám na vlastní mapu s tím, že občas jsem překvapen a potěšen, když se značka znenadání zase někde objeví na stromě. Místy scházím ke Střele a znovu se podivuji nad jejím zdejším poklidným tokem. Většina míst kudy jdu se vyznačuje kusem historie – bývalý akvadukt, bývalý mlýn, bývalá kaplička…ale kusem historie, který už v reálu není často vidět a to, že kdysi existoval víme jen z dochovaných literárních pramenů a nebo z informací předávaných z generaci na generaci, z archeologických nálezů. Členitému terénu dominuje krásný smíšený les v kvalitě, která u nás v současnosti již není běžná. Další dominantním znakem je absence lidí. Ano, jsou všední dny, ale i tak – včera jsem na celé cestě potkal tři zemědělce u traktoru a dnes jednu paní ve vísce Sovolusky, která mě navigovala, když jsem ztratil cestu a bál jsem se projít přes pole kde se pásly krávy (nevěděla, že mám ke strachu dobrý důvod). Trochu mi Sudety připomněly jinou oblast ovlivněnou válkou a nepřátelským vztahem mezi Čechy a Němci – a sice Český les. O něm jsem jednou napsal, že se jedná o „místo bez atrakcí“. A chtěl jsem něco podobného napsat i o Sudetech. Ale tentokrát by to nebylo přesné. Zatímco v Českém lese nejsou takřka ani známky po osídlení, které tam ale opravdu na velké části území vůbec nebylo, v Sudetech ty známky jsou, byť často jen náznakově v podobě kousku zdi, zapomenuté kapličky a podobně. Ale čas od času se vynoří něco jako Skoky a když se člověk podívá blíže na mapu, objeví spoustu zapomenutých zámků, hradů a dalších památek doby dávné i méně dávné. Některé nepřístupné, ale některé i s prohlídkou. Chce to vzít nohy nebo kolo a hledat a poznávat. Ale stejně jako v Českém lese i zde si člověk může vychutnávat krajinu bez lidí, s absencí penziónů a hotelů, a typický ráz zvrásněné pahorkatiny. Sice zde nejsou takové lány lesního porostu jako v Českém lese, ale o to větší je zde rozmanitost.

Zpátky „domů“

Chvíli s turistickým značením, chvíli bez něho, scházím do vesnice Radyně kolem druhé odpoledne a začíná zase solidně pršet. Oblékám tedy pončo a po silnici rázuju na poslední úsek cesty do Toužimi, příjemných 25 kilometrů za dnešek.

Toužim – další velkoměsto s bezmála 3700 obyvateli a zpustlým zámkem – doslova proběhnu. Tlačí mě čas, jestli chci stihnout náhradní bus do Žlutic a odtamtud se začít přemísťovat zpět do Prahy, musím s sebou hodit. Nakonec se daří a přicházím na autobusové nádraží za pět minut odjezd. Skvělé je, že ve Žluticích mám na přestup hodinu. A to je samozřejmě možnost zase navštívit svůj druhý domov – nádražku. Přestalo pršet a tak suším pončo a kochám se znovu jedinečným exteriérem i interiérem tohoto místa. Kdyby bylo na mě vyhlásil bych nádražku tohoto typu chráněnou památkou, dědictvím UNESCO a pořádal sem poutní cesty. Ale pouze za předpokladu, že by na ně nikdo nechodil. Protože nádražky patří štamgastům a pár zbloudilým poutníkům, kteří je dokáží ocenit, stejně jako Sudety patří místním lidem, kteří dokáží ocenit jejich krásu i syrovost. To dobré i to špatné. Přišla mi SMS, že jalovička Tečka je ve stáji. Staří zemědělci přijeli, vzali kýbl s chlebem a pomalu jí tam dovedli. Pomalu asi za dvě minuty. A bez rodea. Rodeo zase patří pražským kovbojům.

Na autobusové zastávce si ještě fotím tamní politicky nekorektní nápis do sbírky a dvěma krkolomnými spoji se přesouvám do Rakovníka. Je před šestou a nechávám si ujet autobus do Prahy. Důvod? Rakovnická nádražka. Další skanzen. Další poutní místo. Osvědčená. I přes to, že pivo Bakalář bylo nahrazeno pivem Březňák. To mi ale nevadí, obrátím do sebe dvě a pak už se konečně vykopu na poslední cestu.

Kovboj na poslední cestě ze Sudet.

Přibližná trasa procházky na mapě:



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